THE LESSER KNOWN PORTS OF THE ADRIATIC WERE THE HIGHLIGHT OF LIZ FLEMING’S CRUISE ABOARD THE VOYAGER OF THE SEAS.
Liz Fleming
LITTLE DID WE KNOW when we boarded the fabulous Voyager of the Seas, a destination in itself, that the Adriatic cruise itinerary would introduce us to some of the Mediterranean region’s best kept secrets. Our voyage not only introduced us to Italy’s delightful east coast countryside, but also to the charming ports of Slovenia and Croatia. The magic began with the sail-away past the romantic city of Venice. For those who’d only glimpsed the city on the drive from airport to port, it was a tantalizing taste of what we’d see up-close on our return, and a wonderful introduction to the glories waiting in our other Italian ports.
The shore excursion lineup had something for every taste. In Ostuni, Italy, foodies adored the visit to the Azienda Agricola Masseria Brancati where they sipped, snuffled and tasted fruity oils produced by 2,000 year-old olive trees. In Sant’Agata Bolognese at the Lamborghini assembly plant, automobile fanatics gasped in awe as immaculately groomed, black-gloved technicians lovingly pieced together an ventador, one of the world’s most highly prized cars. At Alberobello, now a Unesco World Heritage site, history buffs loved the traditional limestone dwellings with cone-shaped stone roofs called trulli. According to our guide Giovanni – a laugh-a-minute fountain of information – the unique conical structures were designed to foil ancient tax collectors by falling to pieces with the pulling of a single keystone. Apparently, taxes were levied only on permanent homes – not piles of stones!
The intricate tiles in the mosaics of Ravenna fascinated us as we considered the craftsmanship of ancient artisans, and the visit to the University of Bologna, the western world’s oldest educational institution, gave us a sense of that city’s profound respect for learning. Italy provided a feast for mind, body and soul but it was our time in Slovenia and Croatia that opened our eyes to a part of the world most of us had never visited. Wine lovers were charmed by a tour of the Santomas Winery and vineyards outside Portoroz and a stroll through the streets of the old city of Koper – both in Slovenia – provided us with a reason to sip a cup of excellent coffee on a sunny terrace. We loved it all, but Dubrovnik, Croatia was particularly intriguing – a doorway into a world of conflict and rebirth.
Twenty years ago, it was hardly a place to lure tourists. Tragically, the streets of that beautiful walled city – often called the Pearl of the Adriatic –were then the scenes of bloody battles waged against the Serbian-backed Yugoslav National Army. Today, Dubrovnik’s former enemies live just fifteen or twenty kilometers away and have become the Croats’ allies in a new battle to bring in tourist dollars. It’s an uneasy cultural marriage, to say the least.
Our 21-year-old tour guide explained the situation with a pragmatic shrug, “My uncle was killed in the war – so my mother will never forgive or forget – but my generation? Well, we know we have to work with the Serbs to bring in the tourists, so we get along.”
The bullet holes that scar the ancient polished granite streets, are a silent but ever-present reminder of war; other - wise, the center of the old city is wide open for business with cafés, shops and a lively craft market. Tourist dollars are doing much to smooth over those last vestiges of conflict. Dubrovnik touched us with its indomitable spirit, but it was our final port that truly stole our hearts. We marveled at the splendor of the Doges Palace, then wandered Venice’s labyrinth of narrow, winding streets, shared a pizza topped with fresh tomatoes and fresher basil and admired a sparkling galaxy of Venetian glass as we searched for that one perfect keepsake. Licking cones of lemony gelato as we gazed at the Bridge of Sighs, we wondered how life could possibly get any better. Then it did – that very night.
Our time in Venice ended at sunset as we lolled in the maroon-cushioned seats of a gondola. We sipped champagne, watched our straw-hatted gondolier maneuver skillfully around his boatmen competitors and listened to the love song he sang. The fact that we didn’t have a clue what he was saying didn’t matter in the least. Your heart would have to be made of stone to resist falling in love with the world’s most romantic city and the charms of the Adriatic. Not to mention the Voyager of the Seas.
WHEN ROYAL CARIBBEAN International’s Voyager of the Seas was launched in 1999 she was – at 138,000 tons and with the capacity to accommodate 3,114 guests – the world’s largest cruise ship. Life in the cruise ship world, however, is all about change and competition. There’s always someone nipping at your stern. Today, the Voyager’s own sister ship, Royal Caribbean’s Allure of the Seas, which stands 124 feet taller than the Eiffel Tower and can accommodate 6,296 guests on 16 decks, has captured the biggest-of-all billing.
Voyager Captain Frank Martinsen, who’s had the wheel of “his lady” firmly in hand for the past four years, isn’t envious of that larger sibling. Says Martinsen of the challenges posed by docking enormous vessels in old world ports, “The ships keep getting bigger, but the ports don’t!”
While she may not now be the biggest, the Voyager’s still running at the head of the pack when it comes to comfort and amenities. Now twelve years old and scheduled for a full retrofit in 2014, she remains in top shape, with staterooms that are well-appointed and cleverly designed to maximize storage and living space.
On this fabulous Adriatic cruise I spent very little time in my stateroom. There was just too much going on. From the full-size climbing wall, to the sunny mini-golf course, basketball courts, waterslides, crystalline pools, hot tubs and endless rows of lounge chairs, the open air decks were a terrible temptation to just stay aboard on shore excursion days. Add to that the free classes in everything from salsa dancing to vegetable and fruit carving, a glittering casino and a duty free shopping area featuring frighteningly tempting nightly deals on jewelry, cosmetics, clothing and more, the Voyager had so much going on, you’d really have had to work hard to be bored.
Most importantly for those of us who love our food (and who doesn’t?) the dining was a delight. While the Windjammer buffet restaurant offered a staggering range of choices for breakfast, lunch and dinner, it could be busy in the mornings. On days in port, therefore, when a quick start was vital, the in-room dining option was the answer. Sitting on my sunny balcony, enjoying a fast bagel and a plate of fresh fruit fueled both body and spirit.
After a day of exploring on shore, a return to the ship provided a banquet of dining options. An evening at Portofino restaurant was certainly worth the small fee and, at the other end of the pay-a-little extra spectrum, Johnny Rockets proved to be a fun fifties-style alternative for an evening when we felt like kicking back and digging into a pile of fries and onion rings. Servers who sang and danced over with our burgers added to the fun.
Most nights, we found that Carmen’s, the elegant dining room to which we were assigned, offered that best of all cruising combinations – a good selection of delicious food choices, attentive, well-informed serving staff and quick delivery. We never found ourselves wolfing down meals in order to make it to the après dinner show.
Speaking of shows, this cruise was all about entertainment thanks to Cruise Director Mercedes Lafuente, the Mexican dynamo. We suspected that she had dozens of stunt doubles on board because, no matter where we were, she was right with us – disco dancing at the Seventies Night, introducing the truly excellent Beatles cover band, calling out the scavenger hunt challenges for the Quest game in the lounge, and skating with the ice show performers.
One of the Voyager’s claims to seafaring entertainment fame is its indoor ice rink. Whether or not you choose to slap on a pair of blades yourself, be sure to catch a performance of their ice show. Despite the fact that a shipboard rink is by necessity smaller than those used for ice shows ashore, the talented international cast of skaters somehow managed to put on full-scale icy extravaganzas. We watched, holding our collective breath, fully expecting a horrific crash into the boards but soon exhaled with relief as they pulled off spectacular lifts and jumps without a mishap.
